OBX Epicurean

Apples are in season in North Carolina, and grabbing the cinnamon and sugar is a natural reflex. There are fewer more perfect combinations for the nose to appreciate than the smell of freshly baked apple pie mixing with the crisp autumn, pine-scented air.

Add a slamming screen door, a porch with a glider and the new book you have had on back-order, and you have the makings of a perfectly sensuous autumn afternoon on the Outer Banks.
A piece of pie in the middle of the day is incomparable. Just a little bit naughty, indulging in a pre-dinner dessert releases endorphins we normally reserve for more amorous adventures.

Inducing an emotional lovefest of pleasure and guilt, an afternoon sweet is both psyche-soothing and selfishly gratifying. The rebelliousness and the breaking of the rules might just put a secret smile on your face the rest of the day.

Big adventures are a little different now anyway. After 40, afternoon sweets and learning a new recipe have taken the place of rocking like a free bird. Taking risks today might just involve using that filet knife that has been in your knife rack since you bought it back in the ‘80s.

Get crazy, you rebel! While you are high on pie, take the knife out and try something a little different with your apples. Try them as stuffing for pork.
Remember, though, only eat this after dessert.

Apple and Pecan Stuffed Pork Loin

Pork

2.5 — 3 lb. pork loin roast (not the tenderloin)
1 cup North Carolina apple(s), peeled and diced
Note about apples: If you like tart apples, try Gala or Ida Reds. If you prefer firm, less acidic apples, try McIntosh, Baldwin or Cortland. You could also try a combo . . . remember, you are a rebel!
1 cup chopped pecans
4-6 oz. soft cheese, mild or strong
Mild cheeses are goat cheese, mozzarella and havarti
Stronger cheeses are blue, stilton and gorgonzola
1 cup chopped arugula, spinach or other green
1-2 cloves minced garlic
Rosemary sprigs
Olive oil
SeaSalt and pepper

Turn on oven and set to 425 degrees.

To prepare the loin to be stuffed, it will need to be butterfly cut three times. Before you begin, read, then re-read the directions. It isn’t hard, just stick with it and visualize what you need to do before you make an incision.

As you trim, the pork will basically unroll much like a carpet can be unrolled.

To begin, select a pork loin that has been certified hormone- and antibiotic-free. When you remove the pork loin from the package, notice that one side has a layer of fat. Some people like to trim this off, but we will leave it on for flavor.

To prepare the pork, place the loin on a cutting board with the fat side up. You will notice that the loin is longer than it is wide. You will want to focus on cutting the pork loin along the longer side of the loin.

Try to visualize that the meat is horizontal to the edge of your kitchen counter. Your knife cut will also follow that same line.

Using a sharp filet knife, make your first horizontal butterfly cut about 1/4 of the way from the bottom along the long side of the pork loin. Cut almost all the way through the loin until you get to about 1/2 inch from the side.

Roll the thickest side of the meat off of the freshly trimmed thinner piece of pork. Repeat two more times, starting your next cut where you left the previous cut attached. The pork should now be about four times as wide as it was and only a quarter of the thickness.

Cover the meat with plastic wrap and pound considerately with a mallet or small frying pan. Be firm, but respect the product. Do not take your aggressions out on this meat. Just try to get the meat to a uniform thickness. Season nicely with salt and pepper to remind the pork that you care.

To stuff: Spread the cheese all over the meat leaving a one-inch border on the left side. Top with nuts, apples, greens, garlic and a drizzle of olive oil. Starting at the right side of the meat, roll tightly like a jelly roll. With the seam on the bottom, tie tightly with butchers twine. You can tie it any way you like just as long as everything stays tightly together.

Rub olive oil all over the outside of the pork roll and season with salt and pepper. Sear all sides over high heat (use cast iron if you have it) until a dark crust forms. When all sides are seared, top with rosemary sprigs and move into the hot oven to cook for 25-40 minutes depending on how well you like your pork cooked. I like to remove when the internal temperature is at about 155 degrees.

Remove the meat from the pan to a platter and let it rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Remove butcher’s twine from pork and slice thinly.

Rich Pan Gravy

Return pan to medium heat and deglaze with ¼ c. apple juice, scraping any browned bits off the bottom of the pan. After liquid is almost absorbed, add 1 tbsp. olive oil and 2 tbsp. flour. Keep whisking and heat on low for 3-4 minutes until flour browns. Slowly add ¾ c. half and half (yes, half and half – don’t be scared!). Whisk away any lumps. You can strain if you really are concerned. Otherwise, don’t worry!

Remove from heat. Whisk in 2 tbsp. butter one tablespoon at a time until incorporated.

Mashed Potatoes

Peel and dice 3-4 medium potatoes. Place in pot with cold water to cover. Bring to boil. Cook until tender. Drain, reserving a bit of boiling water with the potatoes (about 1/5 cup). Mash. Add 1 tbsp. butter per potato. Mash. Variation: Adding unsweetened, plain soymilk makes super light whipped potatoes.

Scoop mashed potatoes in the center of the plate, place two thin slices of stuffed pork on each place. Drizzle potatoes and pork with gravy and dust with a pinch of salt and freshly cracked pepper.

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