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What is the Outer Banks look?
Vestige of the old days: A cinderblock shop.
For as long as I have lived here, the debate over “what the Outer Banks should look like” has been a recurrent theme.
Opinions defining the Outer Banks look, like art, vary with taste.
Some long for the days when the beach was composed of tiny cottages, small local stores and few tourists. Others travel even further into the past, wishing the Outer Banks still sported the wild, mostly isolated beaches that can now be found only between the villages on Hatteras Island.
These days the image of large rental homes, chain grocery and department stores and commercial interests constitute the “over-development” that appears to violate the requisite “Outer Banks look.”
All of which is strange to me. I began coming here in the late 60’s and early 70’s. Once I obtained my driver’s license in 1972, I was a regular and frequent visitor to the Outer Banks.
Now, I am not sure how far back in time one must travel to access the “true” Outer Banks look. But I would think 30 to 40 years would suffice. And here is what I remember of Nags Head and the rest of the northern beaches.
The late George Crocker helped design this building, which is now First Flight Church.
George Crocker helped design a number of structures that resembled Spanish-modern architecture on an LSD trip. Examples stand today in the form of the RBC bank in Nags Head and the First Flight Church on Baltic. Stores fondly remembered, such as two Ben Franklins, looked just like any five and dime found in any large city.
Zoning regulations were apparently non-existent. Signs in front of businesses ran from gaudy to simple plywood with hand-painted names. Signs pointing to businesses off the main drag were common, as were portable A-frame signs advertising bait.
Down in South Nags Head, an epidemic of silver, geodesic-domed homes sprouted from the sandy lots. And no one seemed to care if a merchant displayed his or her entire inventory outside the store and in the lot. Surfers parked all along what is now the bypass and walked to the beaches.
Has Ben Franklin been here forever?
Speaking of carnivals, there was one near my house. I could watch the bright lights and the Ferris wheel every night. It’s gone now. It certainly didn’t constitute an Outer Banks look, nor did the Diamond Shoals amusement park where the Harris-Teeter now resides.
Yet people long for them both. What was different about those two entertainment centers from similar structures along the beach roads in Virginia Beach or Myrtle? How did they represent an Outer Banks style?
So I’m not sure exactly what constitutes a “Nags Head,” or “OBX” aesthetic or “feel.” In fact, when I think of beaches, bright colors and a carnival atmosphere come to mind. What’s wrong with little kiosks selling fruits, coffees and other items?
More to the point, with the economy in a down cycle, local government should be finding ways to encourage more entrepreneurial ventures as people adapt and seek new employment opportunities. Worrying about a coffee kiosk, outdoor dining, lot coverage where covering the ground isn’t at issue, seafood sold in open air markets should not be the focus of debate that leads to banning or limiting their existence.
Big rental houses: The new architecture.
Elected officials need to learn when “grumbling” represents a legitimate concern and when it’s, well . . just grumbling. Far more people have stepped up in opposition to beach nourishment than produce stands in Nags Head, so “grumbling” must carry only so much weight on the minds of elected officials.
I always laugh on the eve of major holidays when I come across the Wright Memorial Bridge. Instead of greeting visitors with a sign welcoming them here, we post an ugly messages to “Click it or ticket,” “Booze it or lose it,” “Expanded enforcement this week,” or reminders not to speed. You can’t drive drunk if you’re patronizing a hot dog stand, coffee kiosk or buying fresh produce.
But unless you are willing to take the Outer Banks back to the time period prior to the 1970s, we should be careful about how we wish to characterize the “Outer Banks look.” The architecture of the 1970s and early 80s wasn’t anything unique or special in all, or even most cases. The big-box stores may reflect a cultural change, but the IGA and department stores of the 70s were similar in style to those in larger towns during the same time frame. We had fewer residents and visitors, thus fewer larger stores.
So, what do you think is the proper look and feel for the Outer Banks? Is it architecture, the type of businesses and residences, the density, or some combination? Weigh in and let us know what you think!
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Andy Lawrenson says:
Great article. I encourage all town residents to attend their town meetings or at least watch the video feeds and express their concerns to their commissioners.
I noticed the author mentioned “grumbling.” The actual quote from the meeting would be “silent grumbling”. I would love for someone to explain how “silent grumbling” can be heard. Silent would indicate to me that no grumbling is heard.
Good article. Thanks.
Pete Hummers says:
Back in the day, the organic “Outer Banks” look sprang from the needs of the people–the merchants and occupants that lived here, not a handful of real-estate magnates cum politicians. That was the real “democratic” Outer Banks. Nowadays, elected officials feel free to turn against the will of the voters when it suits them. Cf. “Anything but going back to voters” (“No more beach referendums, commissioners say,” Outer Banks Voice, January 21, 2010)
Louise says:
To me, Beach Road in Kitty Hawk and the beaches on Hatteras still have the “Outer Banks” feel (I’ve been coming for 40 years). I can’t believe Nags Head is worried about kiosks. I think they would be ideal. They are small and could be beachy. People can stop and quickly get what they want instead of standing in line in a big box store.
Stewie says:
What the town commissioners consider the “Outer Banks look” is an idealized caricature of a place that never really existed.
In their attempt to avoid becoming a “carnival atmosphere” they are just creating a stylized theme park of what everyone wishes the Outer Banks used to look like.
What you’ll end up with is basically one beach community that looks like all the others.
Gary says:
Well said. Every time we lose a Quagmires or Carolinian, we lose a bit of our Character. I’d personally like to see more mixed use development, bike and walking paths. I’ve also got no problem with lots of outdoor stands and would welcome the “carnival atmosphere.” I think Commissioner Sadler is out of touch.
old school says:
The thing about the old Outer Banks was the look was LESS DEVELOPED, covering the Outer Banks in MINI MANSIONS is ugly, plowing over the trees is a sin, pouring more pavement is a sin, and the fact that the yuppie price tag on everything makes it to expensive for most southerners, I would say it’s appealing to northerners because they have no idea of what is was like when it was simple and affordable. Now the water quality is getting worse. I guess you need a mini mansion with all the luxuries because when the water is too polluted from sewage and highway runoff at least you have your luxury beach rental. I always thought it was ironic that during the boom, prices and value were going up and the quality of the outdoor environment is going down. People, cars, highway, trash, septic pollution, how valuable is it really. This little strip of sand is suffering and from what I see it’s only going to get worse. I think i’ll go have a martini now along with a $100 steak. Isn’t life grand, toodles!!!!!
Greg says:
You make some very good points. My biggest concern about the most recent development on the central beaches (Kitty Hawk, Kill Devil Hills, Nags Head) is the density and crowding.
The appeal of the Outer Banks to me is (was) its remoteness, and slower pace of life. I come here to relax and get away from the hectic pace of life in a big metropolitan area. Now when I come to the Outer Banks, much of what I’m trying to leave behind is here: traffic, crowds, and chain stores.
Some people like it, but it’s not for me.
The property that I own in Nags Head has tripled in value, but that can’t buy me the peace and relaxation that I come to the Outer Banks for. It was never about the money.
Selena K says:
Just PLEASE stop building so many banks!
Kathy says:
I’ve also been coming here since the late 60′s, and some members of my family have been full-time residents since the 70′s. Worrying about a ‘look’ seems to be beside the point. The Outer Banks didn’t have a ‘look’ back then, unless you consider the lack of a look to be a look. It was a hodgepodge of small local businesses, all with a different style, but all SMALL, and all welcoming.
Its appeal was its lack of big chain stores, its lack of traffic, its lack of crowds, its sense of peace. That’s what made it unique. The first three are all there now, in all their impersonal glory, and the last is gone (at least for me). The question seems to be “now what?” It certainly is nice for full-time residents to have conveniences, but the Banks have lost their uniqueness in return. I no longer enjoy visiting anymore. I can fight crowds and cars plenty in Virginia Beach. I don’t want to come to the OBX to do the same thing. If wasn’t for the fact that I have family and close friends there, I would likely not come back at all. Doesn’t feel welcoming anymore. It just feels like big business.
I understand that, as the population grew (both tourists and residents), so did the need for revenue. But in generating revenue, the OBX lost its soul.
Mike F says:
Over regulation is what causes this over-developed look. A simple street vendor is looked down on and an easygoing independent cabby is regulated out of business. Those simple life type businesses are what the author described in this artical. The simple “Vendor” is what is disappearing.
Many of these mandates and fees can only be met by big box stores and super chains. And so goes the “little guy.” A fee for this, a cerification for that, a tax here a tax there, it all adds up to hassle and overhead that takes the romance and desire out of owning these little businesses. And when the “little” disappears the “quaint” disappears.
I don’t think you will get rid of all the regulation because of health and safety issues, but I do believe if we limit the government role over this stuff, you will see the creative nature of the entrepreneurial individual blossom once again.
Hmmm… I think I just described “limited government”.
Russ Lay says:
@Selena: Isn’t that why its called the Outer “banks”?? (Just kiddin’….)
Luke says:
My vision of what the Outer Bank’s should like like is from my childhood memories, pure, clean unspoiled beaches and unobstructed veiws of our coastline from your truck’s window driving down the beach road. The towering rental homes are killing our way of life and since we cant take it back before it started we need more industry and jobs to keep our homes that now have no veiw!
Lisa says:
It’s a crying shame that all sorts of businesses and attractions were torn down to build “Mc Sandcastles.” There is very little for the tourists to do other than shop at pretty much the same selection of stores they have back home, or tacky trinket mega stores.
At the rate it is going, the real estate/politician magnates will install vending machines in the game rooms of these pseudo carribbean mega cottages where the tourists can buy a tacky made in China replica of a Cape Hatteras Lighthouse and a microwaveable seafood dinner so that no one else receives any benefit of the tourism.
By the time our visitors pay the rent on one of these grandiose cottages, they don’t have much money to put into other businesses in the local economy. The tourism board seems to focus solely on rental numbers to gauge success, rather than a more complete economic picture.
I would prefer to see more of the unique and interesting on the Outer Banks, in small businesses, attractions and even architecture. I would love to see an atmosphere that encouraged people to jump into small business, and not be over-regulated out of existence.
Mattie Lawson says:
The look is not as important as the character. The Outer Banks is known for friendliness and being a safe place to bring family. Let’s also keep it affordable. Please, no tax increases. With local, county, state (look for a state service tax “surprise” coming out of Raleigh real soon), and national governments all looking for ways to simultaneously bleed property owners and small businesses, everyone needs to become educated about the issues and insist on lowering costs, reducing spending and not increasing our taxes. It’s now or never.
Bob Neriderlander says:
I wish the powers that be would do something about all the closed business. Starting to look like a ghost town. Some can even be torn down. Perhaps before a new commercial busines is built 3 or 4 empty ones should be dealt with. How about tripling the property tax on the empty business? That way they could rent them at a greatly reduced price just to fill them up.
Jed says:
To preserve the beach, I think we should continue to cram as many people on the island each week as possible. We should borrow tens of millions to do anything to hold on to those super-old homes . . .
Let’s keep opening new condos and approving every building permit and hotel proposal. The more people we can put on our beach, the less it will erode, because all those people stomping around, they have nothing to do with erosion.
Dan says:
Last thing we need is another bank in Kitty Hawk.
pokemon says:
All the big box stores allowed here detract from the desirable small town atmosphere we once had. The buildings are terribly designed junk. Where is the blame? Is it the county, the incorporated towns, or all of us for not being involved?
Look at that huge new watersports business in Waves… big red building, signage on the public right of way. It’s crammed on to a too small parcel of land. Their employees and customers even have to park on the street or at other businesses sometimes. Their so-called “live music” blasts through the entire community all Summer long, and you can hear it a quarter mile away…. thanks to poor planning and unwise development.
Andy Lawrenson says:
Someone should take a look at the license fees. You would be shocked to see how much more the vendor license is than any other business license.
J.C. Towler says:
Great article and, if the comments are any reflection of the population’s feelings, it doesn’t seem like anybody is happy with the trend toward the McMansion look.
I hate what developers have done to Kill Devil Hills. The beginning of the end was when the Baum House, an old lifeguard station and surely a building worthy of preservation, was torn down for super-sized rental houses. We had plenty before then, but after that followed Quagmires falling to the shovel and blade, the large tracts of undeveloped land along the bypass getting dozed down, Sea Holly Square morphing from a quaint shopping area to whatever you want to call sitting there today.
Kitty Hawk retains the most character, and if it takes a Hilton or two to balance keeping the rest of the old 2-3 bedroom cottages, that’s a fair trade.
I’d like to see small vendors (look how popular “John’s” remains) have a chance to thrive. I’d like to see a real farmer’s market as is being proposed in Kitty Hawk. I’d like to see the towns worry a bit less about the distance between pickets on a person’s porch railing (yes, happened to a friend in Nags Head), and more about letting entrepreneurship flourish outside of a strip mall.
–John
Selena K says:
To J.C: What you call that thing sitting at Sea Holly Place is the same thing you can call the Landings at Sugar Creek or Croatan Surf Club or First Fight Retreat–DOOMED!!!
Or you could also call it pathetic.
Duke Geraghty says:
I see a few common threads here, but some further info is needed to explain the exodus of small businesses. The small Mom and Pop hotels on the oceanfront were not able to be remodeled or renovated more than 50% of their value. Restrictive ordinances on height, setbacks and parking put in place handcuffed the owners. When the opportunity came along to sell these, owners took the cash. The same goes for many of the small businesses in Dare. Spend some time on Hatteras Island and tell me you do not miss a K Mart or Walmart. As for the large beach souvenir stores, if no one shopped there the owner would stop building them. Evidently someone is going because they keep building more. When towns do not grow they die. Controlling that growth and finding the right balance is the hard part. What I keep hearing now is do not raise taxes, but the truth is that due to the lack of constructing new homes and the real estate bubble, the towns and county sorely miss that revenue. Like it or not, development pays the bills. Too limited space to finish the thoughts.
Ray J says:
Some business owners in Nags Head would like to make changes on their property, but it’s not worth the hassle trying to deal with the town. It seems like a select few can always get around rules, but for most, it’s the same saying,” We want your property to have the old Nags Head style look.” Well as a little kid back in the 60′s, I don’t remember shops having dozen of colored flags in front of them, like all the Wings do. I was told by a town employee that it gives Nags Head a beachie look, even though the flags and floats don’t comply with the code. It’s something that’s not discussed. I feel it’s time for Nags Head officials to re-think some of their decisions on the small local business. I’d personally like to see more small business in Nags Head and less big box stores like Wings on every corner. Not to bust on Wings, but how many stores do you really need on one island???
Lauri Keck says:
I came on vacation the first time in 1979 and fell in love with the relaxed nature of the place…being able to spend real time on the beach, watching the fishing boats going out by Oregon Inlet campground and seeing the dolphins jumping as they followed along. Spending days fishing and getting to know people in the campgrounds or in the little stores and galleries around. I love the artists that have come here to enjoy and create from the natural inspiration. Nothing was hidden back then … but as we lose places like the Coast Guard Station in KDH, Newmans, George’s Junction, Quags, Carolinian and the latest to join that loss is WINKS. We lose the Outer Banks Soul and over regulation allows too many mcmansions that serve no true purpose. I don’t want to go on vacation with 40 of my closest relatives, and have heard from many when I managed gift shops here that they won’t ever do it again. You want to see something great, visit Manteo on Saturday morning at Creef Park and see the farmers market there for 4 hours shopping time. The community comes to life in a wonderful family, society way. They get to share their lives and look forward to each Saturday. I think the one in Kitty Hawk is a great idea, but feel the word Flea will be detrimental to it making it. I as a local artist will not go there and spend 40.00 for one day to set up next to people selling their yard sale junk. People who attend Fleas think there are deals to be made.
So what will work …. small businesses being able to rent at a monthly rent they can make a living on and put winter money away…and good customer service to all who visit the Outer Banks. They are here for our benefit, as well as their own.
Allen says:
What is and always has been wrong with The Outer Banks is and will probably remain, those few we seem to elect to office.
If we do not embrace tourism, then we become a sand pit no one cares about. Without the tourist and their dollars we as residents would be country bumpkins and our red necks would not be from the sun !
Let’s make this a FUN place to live, raise and family and grow. Does anyone remember what it was like her before there was a hospital ? I do and it was not appealing !
Tammi says:
My family has visited the Outer Banks since my parents honeymooned there in 1970 and we have seen countless changes since then. I don’t understand how kiosks threaten the OBX look any more than 15 “Wings” stores or the other multiple location “junk” stores down the bypass do. Some of the changes for the Outer Banks have been good, but lately some things like how many super size cottages are being built are bad. We still love the Outer Banks and still will be there but I really think the town commissioner needs to worry about bigger things than the kiosks which I think are a good idea.
Lynda says:
My husband and I have been coming to the Banks since the 80′s, finally being able to move here about 10 years ago.
We still love the Outer Banks, but the attitude has changed from laid back, enjoy nature, step back in time, to hustle bustle, plan around the summer traffic and dealing with the myriad of town government regulations and control. What type of atmosphere do we portray to not only to the tourists but our permanent residents when the signs are all negative, “click it or ticket”, “no thru streets”, ” no fireworks of any kind”, “you need a permit for that”? When do we ever say to anyone “thanks for coming, see you next year?” We’d love to see a farmer’s market, with open air seafood stalls and a place that our local artists could exhibit. Such a place would not only sustain our locals, it would be different and it would offer a sense of what the Outer Banks is, it’s people, it’s bounty of fresh seafood and the natural flow and rhythm of the beach. It would be the “look” of the Outer Banks and when visitors left they would have experienced something they couldn’t get anywhere else. As someone said earlier, the Outer Banks is in danger of losing its soul. We have the power to keep that from happening if we choose to.
Cynthia says:
We need about twenty more WINGS/SUNSATIONS…after all, there can never be too many places to buy hand-painted hermit crabs or plastic coconut sippy cups…with 75% off bargains year round.
David F Henderson says:
http://www.gopetition.com/petition/38587/signatures.html
Here is a link for an online petition to help us try to stop this atrocity.
Andy Lawrenson says:
Tubbs wraps up its first tourist season today at the Tanger Outlet Mall. To my knowledge only one councilman from Nags Head stopped by to look at my set up. He enjoyed two chili dogs while there.
Nags Head Town Council expressed worry that NH would be overrun with vendors. Didn’t happen. They said restaurant owners would be mad. Each day I clean my equipment and use the kitchen at the South Beach Grille and spend 10 minutes talking business with a very prominent OBX restaurant owner. He likes the idea of the vendors. One council woman expressed fear of looking like a circus. Not once did I see a clown, and elephant or dancing pony on the deck of Tanger this summer.
Tubbs employed 3 people this summer, payed taxes, payed rent. I think Tubbs had a successful summer. Looking forward to next year!